Obscure Boulders

Dumb F#$@ Chiseling Bastards....

2012-01-19T19:51:00.000-08:00

As a side to rock climbing I study Native American Rock Art. Today, when doing a site visit I found to my horror that someone had chiseled holds into a prehistoric rock shelter so they could traverse it. To make it worse, they chiseled holds directly into paintings-the only ones at this end of the range and of some great age-maybe the oldest in the Santa Monica Mountains. Not only that, but the chalk from using these chiseled hand holds covered at least three paintings. And the "developer" pryed off numerous flakes that had paintings to "clean" the rock... and the feet that are used for the traverse have destroyed three other paintings lower on the shelf. I am not going to say where this spot is as theres no point in listing it on a climbing blog, suffice it to say that it is on Topanga Canyon. To Whomever recognizes this rock, please do not ever climb here again and stop anyone from climbing there again. Don't mention it to people, don't go back and show friends, please just let it fade into obscurity with what little dignity it has left. The site is horribly destroyed now thanks to climbing and I am just dumbfounded at how selfish someone could be to chisel a series of holes in 5,000 year old paintings, so much effort and carelessness to climb shit rock as a traverse...

heres a small part of the damage... what remains of the paintings can be seen under the chalk as a black "chain" pattern.

SMM Videos- GET PSYCHED!!!!!!

2012-01-11T22:11:00.000-08:00

I have searched the web and compiled pretty much all the web has to offer on Bouldering in the SMM.

The best quality videos available came from Scientia Climbing, click HERE to visit their blog.

Circuit No. 2
Area Featured - Malibu Creek
Problems Featured - Classic Malibu Face, Sink or Swim (It's one of my favorites at the Creek), Hot Lips, Wonder Woman, Swamp Thing, Waiting for Guntess, Drifter

The late great Michael Reardon showing us how its done. One of my all time favorite memories at the Creek is running into Michael there and tagging along for his "warm up"- he was a very kind and patient person, all around a great human being. This is my favorite bouldering video of Malibu Creek - keep in mind most of these boulders are rarely - if ever - climbed without ropes.

Purple Stones Bouldering
Area Featured- Purple Stones
Problems Featured- Soapstone Traverse, Centerpiece SDS, Maple Canyon Arete, Purple Prow, Purple Squeeze

The Time Tunnel
Area Featured- Purple Stones
Problems Featured- Lodestone, Chicken Cacciatore, Pebble Direct (listed as The Zodiac in Frys guide), Whirpool Roof FA, Whirpool Arete FA, Hip Replacement FA

Daniel the Angry Inchworm
Area Featured- Purple Stones
Problems Featured- Pop Rocks

Three from the Tunnels
Area Featured - Tunnel Boulders
Problems Featured - Captain Hook (erroneously listed as Crocodile Rock SDS), Roadkill, Leah Problem

The Algae Fetch
Area Featured- The Tunnels
Problems Featured- A cups, Avalon (the original and proper way), Save the Best for Last

Three from the Mountains
Areas Featured -Purple Stones, Moss Boulders, Temporals
Featured Problems - Purple Prow, Forest Wizard, Earthworm Jim

Soapstone Traverse
Area Featured - Purple Stones
Problem Featured - Soapstone Traverse, might have been the FA?

Centerpiece SDS
Area Featured - Purple Stones
Problem Featured - Centerpiece SDS, I think this was either the FA of the SDS or 2nd ascent

Malibu Creek Apes Wall Cave Boulder

Area Featured- Malibu Creek

Problems Featured- Kuan Chin Roof

Bouldering Fraidy Cat V2
Area Featured - Tunnel Boulders
Problem Featured - Fraidy Cat

Morgan Sending Temporal Relativity
Area Featured - Temporals
Problem Featured - Temporal Relativity 2nd Ascent

Colin Rosemont - Earthworm Jim
Area Featured- Temporals
Problem Featured - Earthworm Jim

The Essence of Failure
Area Featured - Malibu Creek
Featured Problem - The Malibu Rood (Chubbs) Ivan Green almost sending it before his eventual FA.
Worth mentioning that he started in a rather random spot to the right, which is not a sit start. Most repeats have simply climbed the line in a direct fashion from a sit start rather than traversing a the four pockets down into the sit start.

The Malibu Roof
Area Featured - Malibu Creek
Featured Problem - The Malibu Roof (Chubbs) 3rd ascent

Shawn Diamond and Damon Corso Climb/Shoot Chubbs, v11, Malibu Creek State Park

Area Featured - Malibu Creek

Featured Problem - Malibu Roof (Chubbs) 2nd ascent, and no, the problem did not break as Shawn claims in the video... its also not called stink finger...

Malibu Creek Bouldering
Area Featured - Malibu Creek
Featured Problems - Kuan Chin Roof, the Arete, Pai Mei Overhang, The Corner Problem

Malibu Creek Climbing Blockbuster 11a, Sink or Swim V2
Area Featured- Malibu Creek
Featured Problems -Sink or Swim FAST FORWARD to 3:35 to see the problem.

Shawn Diamond Soloing Planet of the Apes, Malibu Creek State Park
Area Featured - Malibu Creek
Featured Problem - Planet of the Apes

Idle Days

2012-01-09T20:33:00.000-08:00

Walker eating Purple People Eater, Purple Stones.

Return to the Dark Crystal

2012-01-06T19:21:00.000-08:00

About a year ago I stumbled upon quite possibly the most perfect line in the mountains near cold creek preserve. I dubbed the rock the Dark Crystal. You may be wondering why I have not sent or posted me projecting the "most perfect line in the mountains". The thing is I would give it all the time I had if I was close to strong enough to climb it. I have brought a few strong climbers here and thoughts were all over the place. Consensus seemed to think it was V13 -> not doable. I am in the crowd which believes it goes. Just looking at it and feeling the holds and comparing it to other problems it looks harder than the Swarm. Every month I take the time to stop by and just look at it. It's not too far of a hike if you know where you're going, but you'd be hard pressed to ever find it on your own. I want to see it climbed, the climb deserves to be sent if I can't, but at the same time I want it to be a clean affair, not a show, as the area is so pristine and beautiful, and the others areas I take people to quickly lose their charm from trash, and pads and social trails. Carrying that thought, the boulder stands alone, so there is nothing really else to share but this rock. The rock being of such a difficult caliber it seems meaningless to make public. As it stands, I'm messaging and e-mailing those who I'd imagine could send it in a short time. So far, Nalle Hukkataival was the first to respond and kindly said he would not be in the LA area anytime this trip. Still waiting to hear back from others but hopefully this is the spark that will ignite the tender. The problem seems world class to me, and if it goes, would truly be the pinnacle of climbing in these mountains. Here are some shots.

The first view I ever had of this boulder. I just stopped in my tracks from the sheer shock and confusion of what was standing before me. Finding an isolated sandstone boulder in these Mountains with a great patina and limestone mineralization is like winning the lotto.

From the start of the climb looking up. The depth of the overhang is lost in the shots looking directly at it

A more illuminated view of the boulder.

An outline of the holds on the face.

Starting hold

Crux two or three finger crimp..

An old iphone shot for scale.

Three from the Mountains

2012-01-04T21:09:00.000-08:00

A short film .

Hiatus is drawing to a close...

2011-12-25T09:50:00.000-08:00

Nu'uanu, Home of Kaupe

2011-09-11T16:05:00.000-07:00

Day I:

After the flight here, and the long hiatus from climbing I couldn't wait to get out. I had heard about a new area right in Honolulu from my friend Justin Ridgely of the Volcanic Rock Gym. This new area reportedly had one of the best problems on the island, The Rise of the Night Marchers--see the last post for a photo of Justin on the problem. The only issue was I had never been to the area and had no pads and no one to climb with. Oddly enough, Justin texted me that my friend Ryan Arnold was here on the island-he lives back in California and climbs at my gym. It was an odd coincidence that we both ended up out here at the same time looking to climb. Within two hours, me and Ryan were off to search for the Nu'uanu boulders. What we found was an oddly surreal and silent jungle that felt a world away, yet was just moments from a road and a highway.

Ryan Arnold in search of Boulders

After 15 minutes of climbing banyan roots on mossy chossy cliffs we came to a clearing with a small pool and basalt boulders encircling it, each tucked away by roots, vines and moss. It was a surreal moment. The staggering beauty of this place coupled with bouldering left me in awe...

From the pool, to the left lies an escarpment with the core of the problems at Nuuanu, to the right, deep in the wines and plants lies a few lines and a superb project which was cleaned very recently. I didn't get to it the first day. Ryan and I stammered out of the creek bed to come upon the Green Slab boulder, and behind it, in the Angkor Wat mess of roots is the main boulder field. The landing zones are largely non existent, composed mostly of boulders and sharp volcanic rocks. Besides that, the wines can over take a problem in just a weeks time, leaving the impression no one has touched it in months, if ever.

The Green Slab Boulder stands in the foreground, Rise of the Night Marchers can be found on the upper left side of this escarpment.

A vine covered problem, the angle is misleading as this tops out at the base of the rootball, some 15 feet up.

Ryan and I spent about a half hour exploring the area before it started to get dark and I had to head back to town. We got on some easy highballish problems that freaked us both out, the falls had bone breaking potential written all over them. I should also mention that the Mosquitos here are horrible, I think I got 100 bites while I was here.

Day II:
Round two at Nu'uanu. Headed back this time with 7 pads and Justin Ridgely. I warmed up on the Green Slab boulder and some of the other lowballs around- and some very easy highballs with amazing scale-like features.

easy boulders with awesome holds

Justin quickly got me to try Rise of the Night Marchers thanks to his overwhelming psych. Sending this problem was one of the goals I had for the trip so I was a little anxious. After feeling the holds and plotting the movement I realized it fit my style quite well. As I was checking it out, Justin explained that the Night Marchers are the Spirits of Warriors that march down from the Pali (mountains above Nu'uanu) to the ocean. They march at night, and when you hear their drums you are to lay naked and flat on the ground, belly down. When the Marchers come, they might ignore you, but if they are able to provoke you to look in their eyes you will march with them for eternity... its a pretty epic name for a boulder problem.

So with Justin spotting the death fall, I pulled on. Before I knew it I was locked off and poised to reach the lip jug. I reached out and grabbed it hard.... too hard maybe. The jug is composed of extremely eroded lava stone which has coalesced into hundreds of needle sharp ridges. One of those ridges dug deep into my trigger finger. In another moment I had topped out and flashed one of my goals, only to look at my hand and see a deep laceration pouring blood from adipose tissue. I wasn't going to be climbing anything else this trip, or for another few weeks for that matter.

Rise of the Night Marchers

My finger. . .

After the blood stopped, we walked across the pool to one of the last harder projects at Nu'uanu. It consists of only 4 or 5 moves, but they are reachy and on poor holds in a cramped circumstance-but the setting was beautiful and the moves were inevitably intriguing.

Justin on the newest project

After an hour mostly devoted to figuring out the beta and cleaning, Justin almost sent. I got to hand it to the guy, he's the guy finding and sending the hardest lines in the entire state. If you are familiar with DPM and their recent Hawaii rock arch cover - Justin found the arch. He was also the first to climb it. And from talking with him, it looks like its just the start of Hawaiian bouldering and he is certainly on the forefront. There is now a good crew based out of his gym which are cumulatively finding amazing areas across the island/s. I have had the luck to see a few of these areas and more info is to come. I would also like to give props to the climbers out here which are putting in the time and effort to search for boulders in the impenetrable jungles of Hawaii. The logistics here are a nightmare, and somehow they are doing quite well at it- the Green boulders being one of the newer additions I'm aware of. Thank you guys.

Justin working the top out

Back to Nu'uanu-

In short, the area is beautiful though small, and what boulders are there are little gems. Granted, the rock can be exceedingly sharp and mosquitos are plentiful. But it doesn't really bother me in the end, the movement is good and to be bouldering in the rainforest is truly a unique & special experience.

Nu'uanu itself was in the past home to the mythical cannibalistic dog-headed god, Kaupe. He was killed on another island, but his spirit is still believed to live where he was born, Nu'uanu. Around the boulders are reminders of this, etched for a millennia in stone. A marking of the power this place holds, and that all things pass.

Back in a month

2011-08-23T02:39:00.000-07:00

Montenido Boulders

Its been a good season to say the least. A lot of new problems got put up, new boulders were found, new areas in fact--some mentioned here, others to be mentioned in the future. Its nearing September, and Fall is just around the corner, a season I have been waiting the for since it ended last year. Hopefully, this Fall will bring a lot of new harder problems and some exciting sends to the Santa Monicas. For now though, I am off. Burning Man arrives shortly, and I have a theme camp to set up (4:30 & Plaza is where to find me). It will be the longest break from climbing I've had in over a year. The day after the Burn, I am off to Hawaii to check out the now famous Oahu Arch which my friend Justin found, as well as some of the new boulders recently discovered in the forests of Oahu. The following photos are borrowed from Unreal Hawaii and are going to be my focus while I'm there. Check out the site if you get the chance. I'll be back to the Santa Monica's in October, just in time for good temps and receding poison oak.

madness

2011-08-01T23:11:00.000-07:00

crazy hard problem. . .

good times.

2011-07-31T22:54:00.000-07:00

Went on a road trip with some friends up to Big Sur, Redwood SP, and Castle Rock. Enjoyed some great weather and got to climb some incredible problems, including one of my new favorites at the Cove. The weather in the Santa Monicas is still oppressively hot, looking forward to the fall.

Big Sur warmup wall

Unknown Cave Problem in the Cove

Minga at Castle Rock

Minga on the Orange Buddha Arete V8 at Mickey's Beach

New Purple Stones Bouldering Video

2011-07-22T13:54:00.000-07:00

A good new video from Matt and Ethan at Scientia Climbing, including footage of the new Whirpool Boulder. Includes some classic like Chicken Catchatori and Lodestone and some new school problems as well. Enjoy

Malibu Tunnel Boulders Flooding

2011-07-18T23:24:00.000-07:00

For anyone who has not been to the Malibu Tunnel Boulders during flooding, here is your video

the center top boulder is the top of El Diablo, the bottom Boulder is the Malibu Lieback, and the right Boulder is the Island Boulder. The Rusty Lines Boulder, Mantle Boulder, and Test Tube Boulders are completely underwater as well as a few others.... Impressive no?

The Purple Stones: Ze Whirpool. . .

2011-07-18T22:19:00.000-07:00

Adam sending Whirpool Roof V6/7

Thanks to a heads up from Ethan, I made it down to the Whirpool Boulder with Ryan and Adam. We got on two out of the three lines that we saw on the boulder, which, if i understood correctly was Whirpool Arete, Whirpool Roof, and Hip Replacement. We got on the later two. Whirpool Roof is a quality power problem that owned my pinkie finger, while Hip Replacement reminds me of Buddha Belly from Quantum Field in New Zealand - just with a much worse fall. We worked the SDS for this problem for about an hour and made some good progress, not linked through though. For those wondering, boulder is a recent addition to the Purple Stones and is of good quality. I understand Ethan and Matt have been filming the ascents, so hopefully a good video is to come.

Also, recently, Yair did a two move extension in to an existing possibly unrepeated V9 dyno at the Creek. The two moves are extremely heinous but logical and probably bump up the problem to V10.

Hip Replacement - an aptly named stand start problem-for the moment

The topout for Whirpool Center

A good V0 acroos the pool

2011-07-14T09:43:00.000-07:00

No Honor Among Thieves

2011-07-11T21:31:00.000-07:00

I made the best of the momentary cool weather late this afternoon to hit up the Dark Crystal and the Malibu Tunnel Boulders. After spending the better part of an hour working the start of the Project, I have come to realize two things, it goes, and it is far harder than what I can climb at the moment-it is now next years project. With that, I headed down the canyon to the Malibu Tunnel Boulders for a two hour session with Facundo. We got on Captain Hook and figured out new beta once more, which allows it to go completely static once again. No subjective dyno needed. Feels V10- reminds me of Center Direct on Grandma Peabody. After we finished up that boulder, we headed down to the Squirrel Head Boulder. There we put up a new line climbing out the roof. Starts the same as Roadkill but goes left for the first move instead of to the right, then heads directly up the face on sharp crimps (I crimped so hard on this problem it blistered my finger). We thought it was around V9. This may become a standstart as we worked a SDS for the problem which is hard and pumpy, but certainly doable. We called it No Honor Among Thieves. I filmed Facundo's send on the iphone, but the quality is shit. Maybe get back sometime next week to photograph it.

Just the Start

2011-07-03T22:52:00.000-07:00

Adam on Lord of the Flies V4

The past few weeks have been busy. Lots of FA's and late night bouldering.

Adam on Temporal Relativity V6/7

Finished up my hardest projects yet and found many new ones. Below is a photo of the hardest project I have yet to find in the Santa Monica's. The projects climbs a black streaked face of bullet hard sandstone. The sequence follows a rorschach series of immaculate crimps up an overhanging wall to two positive edges at about 12 feet height. The wall goes blank here and forces a committing dyno to a mail slot at 15 feet. Thankfully at the 18 foot you arrive at a featured lip and a comfortable mantle. Cheers to the future.

Purple Stones Video

2011-06-18T22:19:00.000-07:00

Here's a good video of some problems at the Purple Stones put together by Matt. Climbers are Matt Dooley and Ethan Gia. The first three problems are from the Headwaters, the last two are from the Purple Stones Main Area.

Problems in Order of Appearance:

Soapstone Traverse V6
The Centerpiece V5
Maple Canyon Arete V2
Purple Prow V8
Purple Squeeze V7/8

Enjoy

sandstoned..

2011-06-18T12:06:00.000-07:00

I headed back to the new area with Adam and Roman to try some of the new problems. Climbed a great V2 and V3, followed by two surprisingly difficult problems. The first-not pictured-traverses a wall on very minimal holds, no feet, and long cross overs. The second-pictured below-has a very difficult start followed by committing moves over a horrid fall, leading to a sloping mantle topout over a pinball fall.

Forest Wizardry...

*photo courtesy of Adam Galper

Nu Sandstone

2011-06-16T21:45:00.000-07:00

Found a new outcrop of good quality sandstone boulders near Malibu Creek some ten minutes from the road. The area is limited but has two solid roofs and some slightly overhanging walls along with two 20'+ high aretes. I have yet to try anything, just spent my time exploring today. As I said before, the place is limited and I foresee only a dozen or so problems here, but three or four of them may end up as 5 star problems. The problems themselves are very reminiscent of Castle Rock or the Font. Hopefully the surrounding hills will reveal a few more pebbles.

A New Project: start leads to two hard and very shouldery moves into a seam.

New Boulders

2011-06-05T22:18:00.000-07:00

Checked a new canyon, got a lot of new rocks. more to come...

Malibu Tunnels Video

2011-06-04T22:16:00.000-07:00

Problems are:

Captain Hook-see last post (listed as croc rock sds)
Leah Problem
Roadkill

courtesy Matt

Captain Hook, Redux.

2011-06-03T21:58:00.000-07:00

Looks like I spoke too soon. Captain Hook was resent by Andrew today, via an awesome series of toe hooks, culminating in a giant dyno to a one arm swing. I tried the new beta and it felt great, except for the dyno. I am not one for dynos and it will be something for me to work on. The problem is certainly harder than before for me, hope to hear more thoughts on grading when more people send- Ethan was pretty close. Looks like a good double digit problem though. Props to Andrew.

Captain Hook....

2011-05-31T22:17:00.000-07:00

Captain Hook is no more at the moment. The large triangular crimp which was key for the problem has been completely broken off. Likely, as a result of the over brushing (chipping) that I mentioned in the last post. In the remaining section I found some small blackened pieces of what I think was epoxy. This left me a bit disturbed at the character of the climbers now visiting the tunnels & trying out this problem. I want to re-emphasize that these actions are not OK at the Tunnels or any climbing areas besides a quarry or cement wall. I also want whoever took the shovel from Crocodile Rock to return it promptly. thanks.

Back to the problem, I spent about an hour trying to figure out a new sequence today and fell short of anything that I felt I could do at the moment. If anyone has any progress on it, let me know.

Musings, New Beta, New Grades

2011-05-30T22:04:00.000-07:00

When problems are climbed, sometimes all the possibilities are not worked out, and a harder variation is climbed than necessary. In regards to the local areas, a few problems have been continually climbed a specific way and new beta has come to light which modifies the grade quite a bit. Full Throttle being a good example, one method feels about V9, the other V7. There are also a few hard problems which can be climbed two entirely different methods based simply on height and reach. A great example of this being the Malibu Roof, which is a V10ish if you are tall and have a good reach--as you are able to skip the crux of the original line. It is V12 if you cannot reach. Let me emphasis its a big reach-and that the tall method may eventually break a very important hold off as it shockloads it. As a result, personal grading may be necessary for certain problems. I will be modifying some of the past listed grades on this blog to reflect new beta and new consensus.

Also, Captain Hook's crux hold has broken off entirely and has not been climbed to my knowledge since. If someone climbs it soon, let me know your thoughts on grade. I have yet to try it since the break and will be trying it tomorrow to see how it feels.

And thank you everyone for the feedback, I do appreciate it.

Inner Reaches of Outer Space (thinman project) & Excessive Brushing (Chipping) at the Tunnels

2011-05-25T23:03:00.000-07:00

Sent the Thinman Project. Not going to grade it. Calling it the Inner Reaches of Outer Space (after checking that that was OK with the person who found the project).

Also, I went to the Tunnels this past weekend and saw the the crux hold of Captain Hook had been basically chipped. I was waiting to see if anyone I knew was responsible but no one I climb with seems to have been around there at the time.. Background info: the holds appear on the margins of a mineral vein covered in lichen. When I did the FA I cleaned the holds, not the mineral deposit. As of the past weekend, the hold grew about a 1/3"+ in depth from the FA. This 1/3"+ depth was formerly not usable as it was the mineral vein. This is directly a cause of over brushing, or something more abrasive. I thought this kind of thing happened on V16's... not boulders in my backyard. I feel that it's a soft V9 at this point-using my beta, which is short person beta-probably easier if using Ethan's long reach beta. If anyone reading this was excessively cleaning the aforementioned problem, don't do something this pointless and stupid again. Raise yourself to the rock, not the rock's holds to your level...

-With that said, back to the canyons, still some great lines left to be climbed in places hard to reach.

Thinman Project

2011-05-23T21:54:00.000-07:00

Some years ago, my friends Thomas and Jarod stumbled upon an awesome line in a water polished cave--or should I say, tunnel. The cave rests in the middle of some of the most featured and sadly low quality sandstone I have yet to see. The project lies at the start of the cavernous tunnel some 300 feet long. The rest of the cave is largely too polished and featureless for any climbs, and what few features there are are choss, so this problem stands alone. They projected it for a few sessions and reckoned it was in the double digits. This was back when I had just started to climb and they were by far the strongest people I knew. Since I had heard about it, it had always held a place in my mind as the improbable impossible goal. Something that seemed doable, but only for the mutants out there. I ventured to the cave a few times in 08 and 09 and just stared at it. I tried it for a session but couldn't even start the moves into the crux. For the past few years it just stayed on the back burner in my mind, it was an obvious line but no one ever unlocked the moves, no one sent it.

I made the journey to the cave today with my friend Roman. It has been almost two years since I last visited it. Almost immediately I made progress and movements that had seemed impossible before. By the end of the session I had unlocked the sequence. I did not send it today, but its just a small matter of new skin and another session now. In retrospect, its amazing and inspiring to remember how improbable and impossible this was, to appreciate the realization that it has become solvable in a session, its a remarkable moment when you realize your progression.

enjoy the photos.

The Cave, it goes on another 200 feet past here, this is about 80 feet in.

Thinman Project: Roman a few moves in, entering the crux... nice bicycle.

Horse Flats

2011-05-14T14:03:00.001-07:00

Matt on Blank Generation V9

Got to enjoy the granite of Horse Flats yesterday, enjoy the video.

SMM's Hardest Boulder Problems

2011-05-04T13:22:00.000-07:00

Here's a list of the hardest problems and projects in the Santa Monica Mountains that are reachable. Some have been excluded as they are unclimbable as-is due to the changing course of streams and sand bars.

The Dark Crystal

Probably the hardest problem in the mountains. Undone, but the moves seem to be doable.. Long moves off crimps leading to a committing drive by dyno at 13 feet off the deck. About 8 moves in total covering about 20 feet of height.

Tenative Rating ? real hard...

Location: Middle of the Woods

The Impossible-Project
A SDS to the left of Chubbs. Somehow manage yourself onto very small underclings
on a horizontal roof, then move to a lone pocket and incut, only to make a huge blind dyno
out and around the lip.
Tenative Rating of V13?
Location: Malibu Creek State Park

Avalon SDS-Project
Remains a Project but Almost Sent.
A left variation will of course happen, likely around the same grade. The rock quality is bad.
Tenative Rating of V12,
Crux is Extremely Height dependent*
Location: Tunnel Boulders

The Prow SDS - Project
Basically the Avalon SDS into the Prow, which is a problem just around the arete from
Avalon. Instead of doing the SDS (atleast V10) into a V9, you climb into a V3.
Tenatively V10/11?
Location: Tunnel Boulders

The Malibu Roof (Chubbs)-V10ish or V12
Located just above the rock pool, the original rating
was a bit soft, then the rock was a bit soft, and now
that some of the holds have broken the original
grade of V12 seems more accurate. Climb this
carefully as the key hold to exit the roof is a pinch
which is very, very weak.
Tall climbers tend to do a dynamic move from the hueco
to the pinch, ignoring the original crux of the line which
involves a two finger pocket lock off-see photo.
This method is physically less demanding and around V10.
Location: Malibu Creek State Park
FA: Ivan Green

Captain Hook - V10
A lot of things happened in a short period of time to this problem, including new beta, dynos, chipping, gluing, and breaking. As it stands now it is V10 and goes either as a dyno or static. It climbs from a hueco about 7 feet left of the start of Crocodile rock. Not to be confused with Crocodile Rock SDS which starts directly beneath Crocodile Rock
Location: Tunnel Boulders
FA: Devlin Gandy

Avalon -V9
First climbed by Bill Leventhal and erroneously
described in Louie's book, Climbing in the Santa Monica
Mountains. It's very classic, though not so obvious, as upon
reaching the lip the original line follows a right diagonal line
of bread loaf pinches to a ledge up and right, high into the
green lichen. A lot of repeater's (including myself) accidently
went up and to the left to a mantle top out which is a grade easier.
The key pinch for this problem has been breaking a lot, maybe
leading to a higher grade in the future.
Location: Tunnel Boulders
FA: Bill Leventhal

Ultraviolet -B2 UNREPEATED
Unrepeated since Bill Leventhal put it up in the 1988 or 1989. The problem climbs the blank
section in the middle of the face of the Naked Edge Boulder. Since no one has
repeated it and it was originally graded B2, I will leave that grade until repeats occur.
Props goes out to Bill on this one, this highball problem climbs over a heinous pinball boulder
landing and was climbed without crash pads.
Location: Purple Stones
FA: Bill Leventhal

Leah Boulder -V9

A problem we worked last summer which Yair subsequently almost

flashed, he sent in a few tries and was unrepeated for a year. Its basically

two real hard moves.

Location: Tunnel Boulders

FA: Yair

Evenflow-V9
Classic traverse on the Hot Lips Boulder in Malibu Creek. Goes
the same direction as the flow of the creek. Holds keep breaking on
this so it may be hard for the grade.
Location: Malibu Creek State Park

FA: ?

No Honor Among Thieves - V9
Same start as Roadkill but heading directly up (veering slightly to the left). A sds extension for this problem is likely.

Location: Malibu Tunnel Boulders

FA: Facundo Lengbehn and Devlin Gandy

Torosa -V9
An absurd low-start compression problem leading into a serious of
deadpoints.
Location: Temporals
FA: Devlin Gandy

Halfway Boulder -V9
Heard this got sent a few years ago, I tried it but never figured out the beta.
Heard recently it got a 2nd ascent and they graded it V9. Its a lone boulder
halfway between the Headwaters and Main/North area. The problem faces
away from the creek on the opposite side of the creek from the road.
Location: Purple Stones

FA:?

Purple Prow (Purple Stone's Midnight Lightning)-V8

Originally graded hard V9. Better beta brought it to soft V9 and the breakage

of starting holds has made the start higher, and a solid V8. One of the best

problems in the Mountains.

Location: Purple Stones

FA: Dimitrius Fritz

Save the Best for Last -V8

A superb problem at the Tunnel Boulders that was developed last summer. A

great roof climb leading to a series of immaculate crimps and some fun bumps

over a not so fun landing.

Location: Tunnel Boulders

FA: Dimitrius Fritz

Black Fly Hell -V8
A tension and compression test piece. A beautiful climb which Spencer

endured hell to send. From May to September the Temporals are home to

Black Flies which are smaller than mosquitos and leave bites the size of a

half dollar that last for a week-and they're everywhere.

Location: Temporals

FA: Spencer Church

Avalon Left -V8
From my standpoint, the more obvious line for Avalon, as it is the direct
one. Instead of following the diagonal bread loaf pinches, you reach far
out left and throw to a lone sloper over the bulge, then mantle. If the
lichen is at all moist, expect to fall.
Location: Tunnel Boulders
FA: Dave Katz?

Ignoring the Obvious -V8
Weston sent this in three or four tries if I remember right. A simple lowball
with obvious moves that require strong lock offs. Soft for the Grade
Location: Cobble Boulders
FA: Weston Ureda

The Waiting -V8
A 3-Move Problem
Weston basically flashed this problem infront of us. Subsequently though, he wasn't
able to repeat it. It took me a year before I figured out the beta. With the beta, its not bad.
The problem is only doable for a few months a year when the creek is low enough, and even
then you may fall in the water.
Location: Temporals
FA: Weston Ureda

The Microwave -V8
Follows the obvious Black Streak up the highest vertical face on the El Diablo boulder.
A very obvious and very highball line. Needs a lot of pads to try it safely.
Rarely climbed, if ever, since the first ascent
Location: Tunnel Boulders
FA: Ethan Pringle & Buck Branson?

Witness the Steel-V8?
A traverse beneath Century Lake Dam. Starts at rolling black out and traverses
up creek and high across the pocketed face (over water) until you can walk off.
Not sure of the grade, and not sure if it was repeated.
Location: Malibu Creek State Park
FA: Michael Reardon

Purple Squeeze -V7/8

Just to the left of Purple Prow, it finishes the same as Purple Prow. A classic

compression problem.

Location: Purple Stones

FA: Devlin Gandy

Roadkill - V7/8

If you like crimps, this is your problem. Traverses a vertical face on awesome crimps to a positive
arete.

Location: Malibu Tunnel Boulders

FA: Yair?

Full Throttle-V7

Supposedly this line did a giant dyno to a horrible edge out of

an overhang. Subsequent attempts seem to show that the line doesn't

go, or at least does not go near the grade of V8 given in the book.

As a result a static method was found, to respect Louie's "send"

we kept the name.

Location: Tunnel Boulders

FA: Louie Anderson?

Here's the Ticklist, now go on a sending rampage and keep me updated!
-and please remind me if I forgot something

Malibu Tunnel Boulders, Again.

2011-04-30T00:00:00.000-07:00

Enjoyed the Tunnels once more today. Saw the 3rd ascent of Captain Hook, got to film it, and relaxed in the general ambiance of the canyon. My new friend Ethan grabbed the 3rd ascent in one session, sending it practically twice after painfully falling off the crux of Crocodile Rock. He took a breather and sent the problem in style. In regards to Ethan's send, he found a method that minused two foot movements in the crux, thus making the crux shorter in both movement and time wise. I tried it but felt I was not able to do it as it felt too extended for me. He felt his method made it a soft 10 or 9 but quipped that he was horrible at grading.

enjoy the photos...

Matt on a V3 behind the Malibu Lieback

Ethan working Captain Hook V10?

Two angle of Ethan doing the heel hook, toe hook, compression move on Captain Hook. And no, his right foot is not dabbing, though it is just a few inches off the ground.

In regards to the film, I apologize for the Low Quality. Just got a new camera and didn't realize that the Select button changed the quality of the filming-it went from HD to Mobile setting... lesson learned.

Tuna Canyon and the Humming Bird Boulders

2011-04-29T00:40:00.000-07:00

In search of some new boulders I hiked the length of Tuna Canyon today. The rock is the same formation as Topanga Canyon, though mostly Cobble Stone, and very little Purple stone. Sadly, the bouldering is limited and there are roughly just 5 large boulders worth climbing-they are quite spread out, and nothing more than V3. Development doesn't really seem worth it.

I would also like to take the time to mention the Humming Bird boulders. My friend Thomas found them a few years ago, and though limited, it offers some good problems, and some projects, and a lot of disappointments at what could be if it was better rock. Here's some old photos of Thomas climbing Swimmin in a Sand dune V5. There will hopefully be some development here this summer.

Thin Man Project

Updates.

2011-04-19T00:22:00.000-07:00

Spring is going fast and there are a few updates to mention.

Purple Prow V9 has broken, specifically the starting hold, leaving it at a higher start and at a solid V8. It also appears a lot of people who claimed a repeat of it did not sit start it where the line originally began.

A lone boulder halfway between the headwaters and the purple stones was climbed, the ascentionist thought it was an FA, but it was climbed about a year and a half ago. I have forgotten the name, but the recent ascent and the original FA both graded it at V9. Photos to come.

If you read the last post, "Flooding..." you are aware that the Tunnels lost a lot of sand, specifically beneath the Malibu Lieback boulder. The loss of 4 feet of sand exposed new feet and holds. It took two sessions but I linked the holds and climbed a SDS for Crocodile Rock V6 and am calling it Captain Hook. It adds about 7 or 8 moves of heel hooks, toe hooks, and compression into the starting cleft of crocodile rock. I am grading it at V10. The downside is that a crucial hold for the problem is weak and will likely break in the forseeable future. ** Yair apparently did this the week after me, he agreed with the grade.

here are photos of the extension

Starts in the Hueco and traverses the crimp rail, and then down beneath to a sloper undercling, leading to a dynamic lunge for the cleft.

Lower arrow is the SDS Extension, upper arrow follows the line for Crocodile Rock

Flooding....

2011-04-10T01:58:00.000-07:00

So a few weeks ago we got about five inches of rain in a day, it hasn't been till the last few days that I've had a chance to make it to the canyons to appreciate it. The waters at the Tunnel boulders were in some areas 8 feet higher than their normal flow, that's like a tidal wave. For those of you familiar to the area, the Malibu Lieback boulder had rocks and twigs lodged in it from the waters. The high water also took a great deal of sand with it. The soft sand landing beneath Avalon had three feet of sand taken from it in some areas. I used to be able to stand on the ground and reach the start holds, I now need three folded pads to get close. Also, the sand bar we built around the Island Boulder this past summer is entirely gone, replaced by 6 feet of water. I don't think anyone is going to be trying Trash Compacter V4 anytime soon.

The Tunnels were not the only area affected. The Purples also flooded with water maybe as high as 10 feet in some areas. The trail to the boulders is totally washed out, replaced by bamboo, water, fallen trees and debris. The Headwaters boulders landings washed out and are currently flooded, And there is a pile of wood some 6 feet off the ground on the boulders from the deluge. The Purple Stones proper also recieved a lot of flooding with sand being taken out of the landing for Purple Squeeze and Purple Prow, as well as a river forming beneath Loadstone. Also of note is that the high waters took away the left hand start hold for Purple Prow, possibly making the start a lot harder.

More too come...

Flooding

2011-03-20T23:43:00.000-07:00

Went past the temporals today and they were flooded. They are partially submerged in the photo. Wonder how the other boulders are doing....

Projects update from April 2010

2011-03-18T13:37:00.000-07:00

Here is the revised Santa Monica Mountain's project list from April 2010. If the problem has been sent or progress has been made which I am aware of, a note has been made.

Sit start to Avalon at the Tunnels - 2/12/11 - Almost sent by Facundo, breakage has made the project even harder but the moves are possible, estimated to be V12

Island Boulder Prow, also Tunnels - Untouched

Torosa proj. at the Temporals- Sent 5/6/2010 and unrepeated to my knowledge, graded V9

Labyrinth Projects, atleast 5 in the double digits and a few easier ones - Untouched due to Major Access issues

Cobble prow - Untouched

Balam project at the Cobbles, height sensitive - Unsent, we got lazy

Helter Skelter direct (possibly a sit down and to the left? real hard) - Unsent, we got lazy

A repeat of Dimitrius' Purple Prow- I got the first repeat on 7/23/2010, so far I know of at least 4 repeats by 2/1/2011. Consensus seems it may be a softer V9

Arete to the left of Purple Prow and finishes into Purple Prow - I got the FA on 5/8/2010 and called it Purple Squeeze, so far it remains unrepeated

Sit to Pungi sticks, with its hueco-esque incut crimp - No idea if anyone has done this yet

Left side of Malibu Roof - Still a V-Mutant project

Lone boulder near the Tunnel at the Tunnels - sent by Yair and estimated to be V10ish. quite reachy, named The Leah Problem

Caves near Kim Chi at Malibu Creek, sands need to shift or water needs to be real low - still hypotheticals....

Any other projects I forgot?

FREE TOPOS!!

2011-03-17T15:48:00.000-07:00

I would like to announce that I will be making FREE bouldering topos for the Santa Monica Mountains. The areas I plan to cover include Malibu Creek, The Tunnels, Purple Stones, and The Cobbles. The first Topo will be the Tunnels and should be completed by May. The topo will include the new areas developed last summer which are not in the Louie Anderson Guidebook, and will also update the problems listed in Louie's Book. Also, if you read this blog and aren't a follower yet, please click the follow button, it gives me an idea of who is reading this. Google is listing that I have 200+ readers a month, but I only have 4 followers, I would like to see that change.
thanks,
-devlin

The Malibu Roof

2011-02-23T09:12:00.000-08:00

Went to the Creek with the Chileans today. Facundo crushed the Malibu Roof using alternate beta to the previous sends. The key pinch broke a little during this session. The piece had been lose for a year so it was sad to see it go but not a surprise, with it gone the pinch has lost what little positive edge it had and has become more of a straightforward pinch. Facundo sent the problem after the break, and I at least linked most of the moves. It seems the grade of V12 is more deserved with the lack of positive grip on the pinch.

Old footage of Weston sending the Malibu Roof (a.k.a. Chubbs V12) a few summers back

Tunnels

2011-02-23T01:48:00.000-08:00

Headed to the Tunnels today with the Chileans-Facundo & Lucas-to try the Avalon SDS project and explore. The questionable rock quality of Avalon SDS became a big factor today as part of a crucial undercling and a key foot broke. It is still climbable, but any more breakage may render this project unclimbable. We also climbed Full Throttle, an old Louie Anderson problem many locals believe he never actually did. The Chileans cruised it in a few tries and felt a rating of V9 was more deserved (its listed in the guide as V8). It has since been realized that there is better beta for the problem, leaving Full Throttle around V7.

Enjoy the Photos

Facundo working Avalon SDS project

Facundo high atop Avalon V9

Facundo feeling the air beneath him

Lucas on Full Throttle V7

Facundo going Full Throttle V7

Lucas working Full Throttle V7

Lucas cruising Full Throttle V7

Rain?

2011-02-15T13:57:00.003-08:00

Rain came early, and the sit start for Avalon won't be going down today. Its been an unusually dry winter this year, so we will see if it stays that way.

Avalon Sit Start

2011-02-12T12:28:00.000-08:00

The long awaited sit start linkup to Avalon V9 has happened. A Chilean climber named Facundo Lengbehn Fero, visiting family in Westlake, has in one session linked the unlikable. The problem remains a project, as a foot slip on much easier terrain thwarted the send, followed by bleeing fingertips the next go. Hopefully, before the rain next week we will see a send and a new v11/12 in the Santa Monica Mountains.
More to Come...

Stoney in the 80's

2010-11-08T00:21:00.000-08:00

Horse Flats

2010-10-13T14:25:00.000-07:00

Been thinking about visiting Horse Flats a lot lately, now that a road is open to it since the fires and landslides over a year ago. I have yet to ever go, and don't think I will be able to make it for a month or so, but in the mean time I found this video of Julian Bautista on James March's Blank Generation V10.

3 fun problems on the Planet of the Apes Boulder

2010-10-06T19:55:00.000-07:00

found it on youtube...

Problems are:
Kuan Chin Roof V6,
Han Shan Arete V4
Pai Mei V6/7
Unnamed V3 ish

Sierra Weekend

2010-10-04T02:39:00.000-07:00

Went to the Sierras this weekend, and was lucky enough to climb at Way Lake and the Buttermilks. Felt good to get back in the swing of California bouldering, though it all felt somewhat foreign after spending so much time at Castle Hill. On a positive note, I have noticed that my technique and foot beta on my "dialed" warm-ups has clearly changed due to Castle Hill, so I think good things are on the way.

Jason K on Crimp Ladder V7

Recollections of Kura Tawhiti

2010-09-28T22:23:00.000-07:00

The day is nearing to the end of my stay here in Aotearoa (New Zealand). In fact, I'm sitting in the Christchurch airport waiting to board my flight to Auckland-then off to golden California. A month can go by so fast. It's been an epic and memorable experience that I can't really begin to describe or show to you. But I can do my best to give some idea of it all. In between the rain, gale force winds, freezing weather, hail, snow, and overall tempest weather I have managed to get in some world class bouldering.

Below are some photos and notations from the past month in Kura Tawhiti (Castle Hill)

Spittle Hill

Spittle Hill, the most accesible area of Castle Hill, only a few minutes from the car park, its a weird world of funky problems here, atleast most of the problems have discernable holds though, most of the classics are as polished as marble.

Here's Chan on Beautiful Edges, a classic V4 found a bit up hill from the Joker-on the back of Spittle Hill. The problem is polished to a marble finish in some places, and one's choice of movement is very height dependent, which makes your technique all that more valuable on this problem.

The Outcast, a classic V8 that gaurds the entrance from Spittle Hill into Quantum Field.

Jon Sedon is on it here, he's a strong Kiwi Climber you can find on the cover of last month's edition of The Climber, New Zealand's very own climbing publication.

Quantum Field

Chan on one of Quantum Field's oddball problems, Orifice Fish V3; it actually has positive

incut crimps to jugs, very unusual for this place. The problem is also unique in that it climbs into a tunnel, which you can walk through and back down to the base of the boulder.

Some of Quantum's odd lowballs, its amazing how hard a 70 degree slab with good holds can be...

JC on an excellent pocket puller warm up, The Big Yellow Scoop Problem V2,

erroneously listed as V6 in a not too distant issue of Rock and Ice.

Hannes latches the lip of The Cauldron V4. The problem hides in the back of Quantum Field,

just a bit uphill from the legendary Snake Eyes V9 and The Unrepeatable Mantle. Just look at all that limestone in the background...

Looking towards Spittle Hill from Quantum Field on one of the many windy, cloudy days.

Wuthering Heights

Stefan fiending on the Thin White Line V7, it's a superb and technical arete, which leads to a

cool compression problem ending with a "glory" bucket. It also marks the start of Wuthering Heights,

a barely visited, but incredible bouldering area perched a few hundred meters above Spittle Hill and Quantum Field (which can be seen in the background on the right). Quite quickly this area became my favorite area of Castle Hill (which is Spittle Hill, Quantum Field, Dark Castle, & Wuthering Heights).

Wuthering Heights is a surreal and sublime boulderfield situated on a ridge overlooking

the Castle Hill basin. Often times, you have the place entirely to yourself-like this day. Though the weather was ideal, and there were some crowds of tourists, and atleast 2 dozen boulderers in Spittle and Quantum, Stefan (lone figure in the middle, to the left of the massive boulders) and I had the place to ourselves. The experience was serendipitous to say the least.

Average day at Wuthering...

Flock Hill

The road to Flock Hill can seem like a long one the first few times you go,

notice the boulder field in the upper left-hand side... You have to walk there from this point. In fact, you don't really use the road too much at all, you mostly just walk through the grasslands and spike bushes.

the sheer madness that is Flock Hill... it just goes and goes

James Morris, a local Kiwi strongman, battles Acapulco V11. This is one of the more recent

additions by Derek "The Dispatcher" Thatcher. Funny thought, when James achieves victory on Acapulco, he gets to jump down from higher than his hands are in this photo

Derek the Dispatcher getting the FA of a dozen move extension into Porky V7,

he called it Bringin' Home the Bacon V?

Derek "The Dispatcher" Thatcher

responsible for over 1,000 FA's V6 and harder in the Castle Hill Area

Stoo, coming to grips with Chaos Out of Order,

takes a moment to reflect upon his footwork.

Stefan fully committing to the one foot highstep mantle crux of Curt Colossus V7

Homage to Dosage V

"Quick, tag my fist in the camera! SHIKADANG!"

Stefan contemplating Mobius V8

surreal and sublime limestone

2010-09-06T23:52:00.000-07:00

Jon Sedon on The Joker V9, Spittle Hill

climbing here is surreal, more to come

Went to New Zealand

2010-09-01T16:56:00.001-07:00

I'll be climbing at Castle Hill for the next month.
Cheers---

Projects.

2010-08-28T22:03:00.000-07:00

New Projects at the Tunnels are in abundance. This is a Castle Hill-esque sloper problem starting on a solid limestone undercling, long throw to a heinous sloper and an improbable move up to a decent hold. Still a projects but its possible. Thanks to Mikey for the Photo.

The Waiting... is over

2010-08-22T02:14:00.000-07:00

I finally repeated Weston's The Waiting tonight. Took me about a year to do one move. Go me! Tonight, I suddenly looked at it in a profoundly different way. New beta became obvious and I sent with complete control. Very satisfied I must say. I'm suggesting the rating of V7 or V8 for this one move wonder via the way I did it. Weston did not grade it, though he did practically flash it. This is the first repeat. Hopefully I will be able to share the beta and get some consensus on grades.

New Problems

2010-08-14T00:58:00.000-07:00

A new problems have been put up in the newer area at the Tunnels since the last post-not all of which I can remember the name of, more to come on this.

My Girlfriend Does It Too V1 (FA Spencer Church)
Hieroglyphics V4 (FA Spencer Church)
Squirrel Head Roof V4+
Goldfinger V6? (FA Dimitrius Fritz)
Feel the Rush V2/3 (FA Dimitrius Fritz)
Hypodermic V2/3 (FA Spencer Church)
Skid Marks V4 (FA Spencer Church)
Addicted V0
It Only Takes One Finger V5+ (FA Dimitrius Fritz)
Yellowstains V4?( FA Dimitrius Fritz)
and a few more I can't remember the name of

Also, cleaned up a new aréte problem at the Temporals on the backside of the Earthworm boulder, checks in around V1, but it is serious quality-really surprised no one ever got around to cleaning it before. Calling it The Secret Lives of Worms. And on a closing note, I have a new project to the right of Weston's The Waiting, which is a straightforward all out barrel-roll dyno off two small crimps and a high right foot, looks like its going to be real hard when it goes. I"m calling it Waking Life, we'll see what happens.

Temporal Send Session

2010-08-08T01:11:00.000-07:00

So tonight we began Saturday Night Bouldering, and well, it went well. I just wanted to take a moment and congratulate Colin and Mikey on sending Temporal Relativity Stand Start, and Adam for sending Temporal Relativity SDS. All three had been projecting the problem for over a year, and tonight we had a solid send train goin. On a sidenote, the landing for The Waiting was completed (the problem had previously been over about a foot of water) and is still waiting for a 2nd ascent. I gave it a few goes tonight and I have no clue how Weston pulled that one off.

Morgan sending Temporal Relativity SDS last year

Busy Season

2010-07-30T03:01:00.000-07:00

In the past two weeks we finally got around to exploring Topanga and walked the length of Topanga Canyon in search of new boulders, I finally succeeded in sending the Purple Prow V9 (2nd ascent), 20+ new problems have gone up at the Tunnels (thanks to Dameat and Spencer), and I meandered the Eastern Sierra for a week.

In order of mention:

Here are some of the new boulders we found in between the Cobbles and the Purples, forgive the poor quality, I was testing out a new mini pocket camera. Overall, the area was a bit too widespread and marginal in quality to be worth development, though Adam and Michael seem to be convinced it has potential, and maybe it does, time will tell.

A huge isolated bloc in the middle of the creek with OK stone

the left arete is exceptional, too bad its over 3 feet of water...

Some of the new problems from the Tunnels

Christina Pilo on Hieroglyphics, a technical and short lowball

Jordan hoping not to get stuck on Hypodermic V2

Hypodermic's mantle crux

Aaron feelin' the rush

Dameat climbing high to Feel the Rush V2/3 R

Pilo working It Only Takes One Finger

Jordan oh so close to the mono

Dameat sticking the mono on his problem, It Only Takes One Finger

Eastern Sierras...

Colin on Twin Cracks V0, Way Lake

Myself on John Bachar's Mean Green V8, Tuolumne

Tunnels continued...

2010-07-16T03:07:00.000-07:00

Since this hot weather has come in, the Tunnels (probably the purples too-but I've been lazy) is the only reasonable place to climb in the Santa Monicas, even the Temporals are in the 90's! In the past two weeks, Dimitrius has been on a rampage sending new (largely ignored but quality) problems and maintaining the area, while also renewing interest in it. As I mentioned a week or so ago, he built up the landing for the Island Boulder, enabling about 5 problems to be climbed once more. He also sent two possible FA's adjacent to the El Diablo boulder. One is named {I believe} Thinble (V5) and starts low on a heinous left hand sloper and right hand slot, climbing a technical though short aréte, the other starts to the right of Thinble, utilizing a right hand hold as the staring left hand hold, and heads out via a hard deadpoint to a mono, followed by another mono to a straightforward topout. This is also rated V5-it, might I add, took me out of commission for 4 days after the first mono bruised my middle finger's proximal interphalangeal joint. Word of Advice: don't attempt it as a warm up...

Spencer Church on one of Dimitrius' new problems, I believe he called it the Thinble V5

Also, I talked with Dimitrius and Bill Leventhal (he got the FA of Avalon) and found out that Avalon (V9) originally went much more to the right, following an obvious series of bread loaf pinches, than the way Spencer and I had sent it-which veered up a bit more directly utilized a slopey sidepull followed by a throw to a pinch and mantle. So, in an effort to get the full Avalon experience I sent via the original line, and it is certainly a V-grade or two harder than the alternative. The odd thing about it is that the alternative is more direct, while the original line seems a bit more obvious. Either way, I think it's the best problem of its grade in the Santa Monica's.

tunnels update

2010-07-02T02:29:00.000-07:00

Dimitrius took the initiative to build landings (and a sand bar) aroun the island boulder (which has been slowly becoming more and more of an island) so we had a good send train on some routes which haven't been touched in years.

untitled.

2010-06-19T03:32:00.000-07:00

back from a meandering hiatus. more to come.

tram tram tram

2010-05-26T03:27:00.000-07:00

Weston sending Byron's Roof V10

Return to the Tram

Made it back to the Tram for the first time in over a year this past monday. There was a light snow the day before, so everything was icy cold, and some of the trails were streams, but it was nonetheless great climbing weather all around. Hard to imagine its less than an hour from Los Angeles. . . enjoy the pics.

Spencer being a beast on Angus V9

Yes, Weston actually wore only board shorts and sweater & sunglasses 40 degree weather with snow- here he is sending Angus V9 on his 2nd try

First casualty of the trip, altitude induced hemorrhage

Jason getting some style points on Gluttony V8

Jason on Gluttony V8

Weston about to send Steep Sharma Arete

Weston sending The Left Hand of Darkness V10

High Winds and Sore Shoulders

2010-05-12T15:02:00.000-07:00

So I did pulled off an overnight trip to Bishop Sunday night-Monday and it was amazing. The temperature was ideal, but sadly a storm rolled into the milks by 1:30, launching crash pads and gear in every which way. We then headed to the Ice Caves and worked some real good problems, and I finally got my nemesis, Feels Like A Barnacle-such a long reach for me, but so easy otherwise. I only wish we had had more time on Xavier's Roof, till next season . . .

Two New Problems at the Purple Stones!

2010-05-09T02:30:00.000-07:00

This is the week of FA's apparently. Started off the day with Morgan and a quick session at the Tunnels. I had hoped Morgan might send Avalon, it didn't happen, he don't got heel strength. . I did a lap on it instead. From there, we headed to the Purple Stones with Dimitrius & Pilo - the Purple Prow on me and Morgan's mind. On the way in Dimitrius got an FA on the Headwaters Boulder, the line climbs the center of the gently overhanging cobbled face which faces the creek- Dimitrius called it The Thimble of the Santa Monicas. We then headed down to the Purple Stones proper, where after a few goes at the Purple Prow we decided to take a breather on the compression project to the left of it. After some failed attempts and beta exchanges I figured out a sequence that worked for me, and the next go I sent it. Calling it Purple Squeeze, it starts hugging the large blunt arete and heads straight up with heel hook trickery. I will get to grading it when someone else sends it. Heading to Bishop tomorrow night for an attempt on Xavier's Roof. Hopefully have pictures/videos of all the new problems and some of the classics by next week.

here are some shots of Morgan trying The Thimble of the Santa Monicas last year. . .

Also got some Video's of Spencer Church getting to FA's at the Headwaters Boulders

Centerpiece V5

Soapstone Traverse V7 (a key hold has broken since the video)

Two New Problems at the Temporals

2010-05-07T03:28:00.000-07:00

Busy week! Earlier in the week I noticed an obvious sit-start to a suspended bloc adjacent to Earthworm Jim (kind of amazed I never noticed it before) anyways, it has some unique compression moves and a really scrunched highstep, it feels V4ish, we'll see what consensus concludes. Called it, Fox in a Blender.

Also, this week has been somewhat of a race between me and Morgan to tick the last project at the Temporals, the arete to the left of Black Fly Hell. Ironically, when I first found these boulders over a year ago I assumed that line would be the first to go, but it resisted, and resisted, and resisted, until today. This week was the first real week of progress for the problem, I figured out a questionable smear toe hook combination to balance my body as I bumped to an intermediate two finger crimp and threw for the sharp incut near the top. With this new beta I had gotten extremely close two days ago, falling on three separate occasions while shooting for the glory jug. I sent today on the 4th try, and guessing its a V9. We'll see how consensus concludes, I could certainly see a person in the 6 '+ range doing the crux entirely differently and downgrading it . . either way I'm calling it Torosa

And one last thing of note, Spencer sent Avalon V9 - at the tunnels, probably the best problem of its grade in the Santa Monicas.

photos and video of Temporal problems soon!

ambrosia and gneiss

2010-05-03T02:48:00.000-07:00

Not too much in the way of new development lately. I took a sabbatical for a week in death valley and it took quite a good bit out of me. Though, by sheer luck, I witnessed the third ascent of ambrosia in rain and wind by Isaac Caldeiro. A near surrealistic experience. Also went to Baldy today and got kicked out for the first time, i'll be back though.

here are some shots.

project. . .

Earthworm Jim

2010-05-03T01:17:00.000-07:00

Morgan put together this nice clip of Earth Worm Jim, possibly the best lowball in the Santa Monica's, and certainly the best V3-

I spoke a bit soon

2010-04-21T00:26:00.000-07:00

So it rained today, will likely rain for the next two days, and likely again next week, so climbing is postponed once more.

On side note, Dimitrius' Purple Prow has almost seen a second ascent (and third for that matter) but the weather got bad just in time to postpone the sends. Video of the Second Ascent will be up ASAP, I hope.

Also, spent some skin on the project to the left of the Purple Prow and it may go soon as well.

New boulders are also appearing, and we have found 5-7 new projects at the tunnels, on 3 new boulders, one of which seems to be the hardest thing in the mountains, if it ever goes.

In the Footsteps of Gandhi (V2), The Ranch - the problem that started it all

Days to come. . .

2010-04-12T18:23:00.000-07:00

Likely one of the last storms of the season rolled in last night, putting climbing on hiatus once more. I took the time this afternoon to walk around the Tunnels and look at old & new projects (which inevitably became only old projects as all the new ones were submerged or unreachable).

Here are some notes on them. . .

The large rectangular boulder on the right supposedly has a V8 traversing from the cave and out the right side of the face, but a lot of hold breakage, and rumors from the OG locals that it was never actually climbed make it a project. . either way worth the effort and possibly an FA?

Looking at the main area from the Island Boulder during flooding, Avalon is on the left large boulder on the left prow.

Rumor has it that there was once a nice sandy landing for this epic roof, sadly its no more, and the best landing these days is probably when its flooded. There are numerous projects up this face and some old V7-9's that haven't been touched in years.

So much potential for hard climbs on the left section of this face, including unclimbed hard and sustained sit starts, if there ever is a landing that is. . . If someone took the time to grab like 8-12 palettes from a grocery store and stacked them with some sand, this would be a contender for the best overhang in the Santa Monicas. . .

had to stop a lot earlier than I'd hoped due to flooding. . .

projects in the santa monicas

2010-04-02T16:18:00.000-07:00

Notable projects include:

Sit start to Avalon at the Tunnels, at least v10, maybe impossible?
Island Boulder Prow, also Tunnels
Torosa proj. at the Temporals, v8 ish? (FA 5/6/2010)
Labyrinth Projects, atleast 5 in the double digits and a few easier ones
Cobble prow
Balam proj. at the Cobbles, height sensitive
Helter Skelter direct (possibly a sit down and to the left? real hard)
A repeat of Dimitrius' Purple Prow (7/23/2010)
Arete to the left of Purple Prow and finishes into Purple Prow (FA 5/8/2010)
Sit to Pungi sticks, with its hueco-esque incut crimp
Left side of Malibu Roof, V-mutant
Caves near Kim Chi at Malibu Creek, sands need to shift or water needs to be real low.
any suggestions?

synchronicity abounds

2010-03-24T01:24:00.000-07:00

home, sweet home

Made it out to Bishop this past weekend for the first time in a few months, I really neeeeded it. Headed out Friday morning with Adam and Trevor, they slept most of the way. As we finally pulled into Bishop they awoke and as each mile brought us closer and closer to the milks we grew more and more psyched, until my cars fuel pump broke. We found ourselves on Buttermilk road, a mile or two from the milks, with a dead car and our goal in site. We said to hell with the car and neutraled it to the side of the road, grabbing our pads and shoes, we made our way to the sepulchres that are the Peabodies. My goal for this trip was to send Soul Slinger, and with the walk as my warm up, I sent that afternoon.

The rest of the trip was a blur of epic sends and epic personas. Got a chance to meet John Sherman & his dog, Thimble, met Paul Robinson thanks to Weston, ran into Chris Sharma once more, and made many new friends & acquaintances. The pictures don't do it any justice, but they capture a select slice of the past few days, a slice I feel is worth sharing.

Dameat "the only spotter in Bishop" being spotted as he nabs the bucket on Seven Spanish Angels

the one and only Sharma

Paul finding the evening temps and lack of crowd to be quite good

Paul on Rastaman Sit, its still a project but probably going to be the hardest climb on the West Coast, I hope he sends it this trip

the crux of Rastaman, a heinous slopey micro patina pinch and all-out dyno to a not so good crimp

Ian heading up to grab a 3rd ascent next to Sharma Scoop

Matty on Buttermilker, I'd be amazed if he hasn't sent this by the time I've posted this

the Owen's valley

Probably the wettest year this decade

2010-03-03T23:13:00.001-08:00

nothing new to note, just unending rain. . . . I hope people aren't climbing my favorite climbs and breaking them, time will tell.

Rain and Steele

2010-02-09T18:23:00.000-08:00

Rain has been near constant, and bouldering-especially in the creek boulders I'b been frequenting-has been improbable. But, clear skies are expected for the next ten days (as it rains tonight) so development may get back on track..

On another note, went to Steele Valley with Spencer and made quick work of Snatch (V7) and sent Matrix (v8) - one of the coolest boulder problems I've ever climbed.

Spencer making the Snatch (V7)

Spencer on a surprisingly stiff V4, Lois Lane

Immediate Projects to Send

1. Heinous Crimp Project on Pungi Stick Boulder, Purple Stones

2. Purple Prow V9? unrepeated, Purple Stones

3. Helter Skelter Direct -fell reaching to the good hold, Cobbles

4. Torosa Project, Temporals

5. Extensions to BFH and TR, Temporals

6. MIAB?

of floods and boulders

2010-01-24T23:56:00.000-08:00

Well last week rained a lot. So much so in fact that the labyrinth's water level raised up to 15 feet in some areas-two days after the rains.... I haven't had time to check the temporals, cobbles, or purples, but sand bars have likely changed-hopefully not the boulders though. It also means that there won't be any possible bouldering till mid next week, as more rain is due tuesday.

On a side note, had a chance to look at some of the new problems being put up on black mountain-they are utterly spectacular. If you haven't seen Beowulf (V11) yet, click here.

labyrinth

2010-01-14T00:27:00.000-08:00

It rained yesterday, which means climbing will have to wait a few days. But, Joshua, Kyle and myself headed back to the newly found boulders--thinking its going to be referred to as the Labyrinth from now on--to figure out what is actually worth climbing. The boulders themselves are concrete hard, but the angles, the jumbled nature, water polish, and sheer size of some of them make bouldering not so ideal.

We began by heading down creek and meandered around some excellent boulders that sadly have shallow water landings, but, one thing I can count on is the sands change often. In this one area there looks to be a dozen or so worthwhile problems, and a superb arete-which sadly is resting in 8 inches of water.
We continued back up the canyon, and rested for while in the interior grotto, which has some deep water possibilities and some excellent traverses leading to it
Finally, we made our way over the waterfall and into a chasm of suspended blocs, which all look really hard, scary, and mostly blank. . .

maybe the winters rains will move the sandbars a bit and epic bouldering will be had.

Sends in the åir

2010-01-08T21:54:00.000-08:00

Its been a busy week in the canyons.

Spencer's unrepeated Black Fly Hell SDS has seen 2 ascents, by Morgan (this afternoon) and myself (three days ago), consensus feeling its a good V8/ hard V7. Weston's unrepeated send at the Temporals has been named, "The Waiting" -though still unrepeated. And unless someone sends it soon, it may not see a repeat till next season as the creek is beginning to rise with the sparse rains.

As for today, Weston and myself headed down to the cobbles where I had a high gravity day (and fell into the creek) while Weston flashed one of my projects, Ignoring the Obvious. The problem itself starts low on a shallow three finger pocket and a pinch, hucking out to a glossy cobble, with a strong left arm lock-off to an incut at the lip, followed by a less than ideal top out. After his quick send, we headed up the creek and Weston, after a few tries, nabbed the second ascent of Helter Skelter. He opted to go an inch or two lower on crux throw to the cobbled rail, grabbing the sloping ledge versus the half dollar size cobbles to make the huck shorter.

Weston eyeing Ignoring the Obvious before the flash

Weston repeating Ignoring the Obvious for the camera

Wes working the crux move on Helter Skelter

Almost sticking it

Obscure Boulders

2010-01-07T15:33:00.000-08:00

Today, with Joshua, I stumbled upon the best quality boulders I have seen in the santa monicas, it's as if Malibu Creek stone were turned into concrete.

here are some highlights,

One of the first boulders we found was this 25 foot tall boulder with an exceptional compression problem starting down and to the left of joshua and heading out above his head. To the right is another (smaller) boulder with exceptional slopers.

My jaw dropped when i saw this aréte, it has holds the entire way, with what appears to be a mix of long dynamic & short controlled compression movements.

Spectacular

suspended bloc

I can't even begin to describe this, but there is deep water soloing.

The boulders themselves are only a 10 minute drive from my house, yet seem to be a world away. Though, there is an immediate access issue as to get to the boulders one has to cross numerous properties, the last of which being one which the property owner (who owns the entire mouth of the canyon and surrounding hillsides) respectfully wants no trespassers. Hopefully things will shape up though, as this has probably the highest concentration of hard boulder problems in the mountain range..

more to come. . .

Some time away

2010-01-02T20:48:00.000-08:00

Spent a good portion of time these past few weeks in joshua tree, the gym, and at stoney. This means haven't developed to much, but the hiatus is in hopes of getting stronger to send more projects.

heres some photos from the past few weeks.

New friend Christina getting close to Chili Sauce V7

Morgan tasting some Chili Sauce V7

Christina on Chili Sauce V7

Colin being tall on Iron Resolution V13

Morgan stretching out on Iron Resolution V13

Joshua Tree

Joshua on the Purple Pyramid 5.3

Morgan on an unsent eliminate project at the Purple Stones

Updates.

2009-11-29T22:52:00.001-08:00

Weston sent a new route at the Temporal Boulders which is as yet unnamed and unrated, but hardish.

I sent Helter Skelter last monday, needing someone to get the 2nd ascent because i can't grade for shit.

Got close to doing a sit start for a v5ish problem at the cobbles, and other misc. sends as well.

pictures in the future.

More sends..

2009-11-01T10:52:00.000-08:00

Spencer sending Black Fly Hell V7?

Yesterday, Spencer sent the sit to Black Fly Hell along with Temporal Relativity.

Consensus so far seems that Temporal Relativity is a "hard 6" or "soft 7". Black Fly Hell on the other hand, appears to be a solid 7+. Though, Spencer is the only one-as of now-to have sent it.

And Morgan wanted to get more angles of him sending (ego centric bastard), so I got a few snapshots of him on Temporal Relativity.

Temporal Relativity. .

2009-10-31T00:56:00.000-07:00

Sent the direct line (via standing start) at the temporal boulders two

days ago, and completed it from the sit today, its amazing how the

line cleaned up, from something we thought would never go, to a

few scrub sessions revealing positive holds and unique moves. I

sent it by myself today, but I was lucky enough to have Morgan

show up a few hours later-along with his video camera- and I

managed to film the second ascent of the line

*NOTE* Click on the video twice to see it in Widescreen Version

I'm rating it around V6/7, need some more consensus on it.

Also got on black fly hell today and almost sent it from the

sit when the heinous crimp sliced my finger open. One last note, made

some progress on what I think will be a V8 once I figure out

the beta, its the wide arete to the left of black fly. Its a stellar,

beta intensive line.

On a sad note, daylight savings is coming which means much

less time to climb outside, but a lot more optimum temps.

Projects becoming realized.

2009-10-26T20:41:00.000-07:00

Spent the weekend in Bishop getting close to projects i've had for two years, and spent this afternoon at the temporal boulders. I got agonizingly close to the left prow/arete, and me and morgan almost managed a direct center route on the temporal boulder, slapping the top numerous times. Its getting time to send.

Idle Days.

2009-10-15T01:02:00.000-07:00

Myself on Niagra Fist V1, Malibu Creek State Park

Weston Ureda on the Malibu Roof V11, Malibu Creek State Park

rocks in fog

Seminole Springs, clearing storm

Morgan at the Purple Stones

Breakage and Projects

2009-10-07T23:59:00.000-07:00

Well,

Over the past week, Gollum SDS and Smeagol both are a lot harder, as the chief starting hold (an amazing undercling) tore out leaving a sloping pinch. So they are back to projects as of the moment.

I also cleaned up two new walls, one being a V0 cobbled face that's just a good warm up-but with an ankle breaker landing, the other is possibly the hardest line I've tried at the cobbles, and if the holds all remain solid it looks to be a gem.

Also spent time on Helter Skelter, but just didn't feel it today... On a side note, I tried the obvious line about 6 feet to the left of it, an amazing left facing seam of cobbles with two finger pockets to the right of it. The only reason i hadn't tried it before is its over a small waterfall and a few larger puddles. Needless to say, I got wet. But, the line is definitely a good one, but it got to dark as we attempted it-and accurate depth perception is necessary for the problem.

Cheers to next time.

gates of moria

2009-10-02T23:29:00.000-07:00

Went back to the cobbles today with a good crew of people, sent a few new problems.

Mirkwood Boulder Additions

Gollum SDS @ v6?

Smeagol @ V5

Gates of Moria @ v2

and . . .

a new unnamed highball problem which needs cleaning (but morgan sent as he broke the holds)

more to come...

Eastern Sierra & Way Lake

2009-09-28T20:39:00.000-07:00

-josh and his canker sores-

Headed up to the Eastern Sierras this past weekend with Joshua, Morgan, Colin and the dogs. We spent thursday night (until 3? am) at the sads, also spending time in the Buttermilks and in Tuolumne over the next few days. It was somewhat bittersweet, as I got really close to sending a lot of problems, but managed to send my longest standing project (which shall remain nameless) after 2 years of effort...

Morgan also got really close (but he's always really close) to sending Seven Spanish Angels at the Get Carter Boulder. He has the thing dialed, but can never manage to sink the bucket, though managed to do vertical pushups on the heinous slopers just before the bucket.

-morgan psyching himself up-

-lap 15?-

The highlight of the trip, though, had to be Way Lake (thank you wills for directions). Oddly enough, it was the last place we climbed after 3 consecutive days of climbing and Josh was zombified from the food poisoning he got at 4 am. Still though, this place is fucking impeccable. Amazing forest, good breeze, beautiful streams and waterfalls, hundreds of problems -which are an adventure in themselves to find without a guide, and perfect rock.

Colin looking at the V9 highball Paralyzed

Its so good I convinced Josh to go back for the day this weekend, nothing like 700 miles to boulder for a day.

-one of the coolest lines I had a chance to try, WaveCatcher V11-

I left Way Lake feeling very enthused, hopefully I'll send some projects at the Cobbles this week/end.

a few new problems at the cobbles.

2009-09-22T00:19:00.000-07:00

female orb weaver spider

Went for a quick session with Joshua late this afternoon. Started on the Hithlim boulder, and did two new problems, a standing start V3? called Gollum which begins on a nice little pocket (left) and a sloper (right) at chest height, followed by a long reach out right to a dish and a heel hook to reach up to a positive pocket and the topout. Immediately afterward, Josh did a sit start to the down climb which makes it a very nice V0, he's calling it The Gaffer. We also spent a bit of time at the helter skelter project, where josh did a nice V0 traverse-he's calling Blackbird-on the up creek side of the boulder, starting on obvious pockets on the right side and traversing under the lip to the finish of Helter Skelter. No luck with helter skelter yet, though I finally stuck the crux for a moment today.

Homless in the Hills Boulder-unclimbed ?

Hithlim and Projects.

2009-09-20T01:12:00.001-07:00

Headed back to the Cobbles today with Joshua and Jillian to work some of the obvious easier lines. We stacked rocks for a few landings to be out of the water, and started with an obvious arete climb that caught Josh's eye.

After a few tries or figuring out what worked, what wasn't going to break, I grabbed the FA of Hithlim, a very nice V2?.

Jillian left, and we moved up the creek where a unique sandstone formation caught josh's eye. The issue with the problem is that its technically bedrock and not freestanding, as such, the ground is solid rock, so to make a distinction of where to climb is rather arbitrary. We chose to begin where the stone reached about 80 degrees in angle, and it was a fun 6 move sequence.

And as the canyon started to get dark, we made it to Helter Skelter, where I made some progress but no send.

We ended the session with Josh giving the Samuel Jackson Arete (v2) a few goes.. notice how Josh bears an uncanny resemblance to Samuel Jackson from Pulp Fiction.

Temporal Boulders and the Cobble Boulders

2009-09-18T23:59:00.000-07:00

Started the day out with something i would never do-an 8 am bouldering session. But for good reason, Spencer wanted to go to the Temporal Boulders and do an FA or two-which is a rare occurence in the Santa Monicas. Needless to say, being not a morning person, I had no motivation; but, Spencer was pretty psyched to be climbing new problems, so in a little less than a half hour, he perfected the beta, and the Temporal Boulders got a new problem, aptly named "Black Fly Hell" (v5?+). Spencer sent the standing start today, sit start should go in a few days, probably at a grade harder.

Sarah exploring The Woods, at the Cobble Boulders

So yesterday, I was driving into LA and the traffic was typical, stop and go, so i said fuck it' and took PCH back towards home. On the way I stopped to explore a stream in a canyon i'd driven many times, but never really explored. After 45 minutes of bushwacking, Lo and Behold I found over a dozen boulders, some 25 ft+, that are virtually untouched. Though, one boulder has a bolt at the top for top roping, but the boulder being so small, and the landing not that bad, i was really surprised by it. So while I'm not the first to discover them, i think i will be the first to develop them.

Sarah admiring some of the potential

I came back today and spent the better part of 3 hours chopping a trail to the boulders, and upon reaching them, finding myself almost too exhausted to climb. I spent about 30 minutes working a new problem which had a relatively safe landing, I'm calling it the Helter Skelter project, hopefully I'll send this week. Its only five moves long, maybe six, but the movement itself feels exceptionally aesthetic.

Helter Skelter Project V?

New Directions

2009-09-18T23:57:00.000-07:00

I am not really sure why i have a blog, but some people find my musings and my wanderings interesting and sometimes i can't remember things, so this may benefit the aforementioned. Now, while occasionally having my musings, the majority of it will be dedicated to bouldering wanderings-mainly finding and climbing new problems in the santa monicas and surrounding mountains.

Gødspéed. ¥ou, Blåck Emperör

Cursum perficio

2009-03-09T04:10:00.000-07:00

and so this begins in the dawning end of one paradigm to the next...

When I look around, I often see people either seeking themselves or seeking God.. I see still others without anything to be sought other then what is momentarily in front of them. In the case of God and/or ourselves, people tend to invariably look within. Whether it is finding internal dialogue with God, reading a self-help book and catching your ego, or trying to silence out those negative thoughts that permeate our minds we still look within. And for some this brings some form of success, though I have not witnessed this first hand. I inevitably fall back to one point of thought on the matter. My eyes point out, my ears are tuned to what is outward, my hands can feel what is out, my skin feels what is out-not what its holding in, my mind's thoughts are almost entirely created from what is without; why should I only look in to find myself? Is not myself something more than that which is within?

So it began, the endless thoughts, and the endless lands, the only limit is the horizon, but the horizon is always expanding, as our past is receding.

It’s all rippling out in everywhichway, in unfathomable confusion and crystalline certainty.
Finite in the infinite.
It’s us.

We are just that one speck in it all, one droplet in the sea. It appears, I suppose, that we aren't simply an alien being in this landscape, this is our alien landscape, our terra incognita this world which we suppose to be without is really the within. Nothing which I can ever sense exists anywhere other than the within. The colors, the textures, the symbols, the infinite, the finite, the feelings, the awe and amazement, the certainty and doubts, dangers and safety, warmth and cold... all comes back to us, to I, to you, to the thing which thinks and ponders itself.

I remember that one day when I saw the land, and I mean really saw it. The sky turned black and the mountains became infinite. I can't remember what year or day, but I know I had passed that same sky and earth before, but suddenly it had become real, realer than the real I had accepted.

Maybe that is what sages and saints of the past called God. I can’t fathom something greater. Just witnessing it brought me to tears and euphoria. In that moment the “I” that I call myself was indistinguishable from everything I was observing. I couldn’t even really say observing, the black sky was observing me as much as I was observing it, the grass and the sand and the dirt and the sounds were sensing me as much as I could sense them.

I realized—at some point just prior or just after that—how I viewed the land and interpreted it was the texture, the pulp, the fiber, and the words of who I am. The simple manner in which I move across the land is how I move through my thoughts—through my supposed identity. How I see the land is how I can see myself. If I can see the inherent nature of the world, why not that of man, why not myself

A search of my own form, took to the search of form. And form-through consciousness-acquired symbolism; magically there is more to matter, as if there is an innate essence which paradoxically exists only from observation.

… and for a while, I did just search. I welcomed the synchronicity that appeared inherent to such a search.

But as is the current nature of life, its possible to get caught up in things, in stresses, in trivialities and others expectations, in money and debts, in desire and loss, in right and wrongs. Its possible to lose sight of ourselves, and on those days I lost sight of the landscapes too.

But I could only run so far into those things as run back to myself.

Cycles and a source,
The sun also rises when it sets.

…and I remember that I can’t find myself until I’ve lost who I supposed myself to be. There are always clearing skies and dark storms. The point is you must see the beauty in both—it’s all the same things, we’re just told to suppose otherwise.

Maybe, what I hold as being within, what I take for granted more than anything is really everything that is without—what if my consciousness is indistinguishable from everything, which exists and does not.
In that sense I believe in god, but not God.

I sense that everything is infinite, within or without, but I am born with the ability to experience that which is without—and this grants me the within.
My conscious identity is just a drop in a sea, whether that’s God, or god, or ego, or id, or a toaster makes no real difference if you don’t suppose the difference.

Just thoughts I’m mulling over. Didn’t see any sense in keeping them in. that’s all.